Lisbon

Culture

Portugal's capital spreads over the hills on the north bank of the Tagus, close to where the river meets the Atlantic. Much of the centre, the Baixa, was rebuilt after the 1755 earthquake with straight streets and matching buildings planned under the Marquis of Pombal. Around it are the neighbourhoods that tell the city's story: Alfama, the oldest, with alleys climbing to the castle; Mouraria, the birthplace of fado; Bairro Alto, quiet by day and an open-air bar by night; Chiado, with its cafés and bookshops; and Belém, where the caravels of the Age of Discovery set sail. June belongs to the Santos Populares (Popular Saints). On the night of 12 to 13 June, the eve of Saint Anthony, the old quarters fill with bunting and the smell of grilled sardines, and the neighbourhood parades march down Avenida da Liberdade. It is also when people give a small pot of basil, with a love poem tucked in, to someone they like.

Things to see

Local food

• Pastel de nata — Flaky pastry with egg custard. The Belém version has kept its recipe secret since 1837.
• Grilled sardines — Charcoal-grilled and served on a slice of bread. The star of the June festivals.
• Bacalhau à Brás — Shredded salt cod with matchstick potatoes, onion and scrambled egg, topped with olives.
• Bifana — A bread roll with thin slices of pork marinated in garlic and wine. A counter snack.
• Ginjinha — Sour-cherry liqueur drunk from a tiny glass, standing at the doorways around Rossio.

Local music

Fado was born in Lisbon's working-class quarters in the 19th century and was added to UNESCO's list of Intangible Cultural Heritage in 2011. It is sung with Portuguese guitar and classical guitar in small venues in Alfama, Mouraria and Bairro Alto, and Amália Rodrigues remains its most famous voice. On the city's radio you will also hear plenty of Portuguese pop, 80s hits and smooth jazz.

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